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Paneer Pakora


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Bhalla chaat from Bhagat Halwai & Confectioners in Agra, India.

What: As in Delhi, chaats, or savory snacks, are very popular in Agra—particularly bhalla, various kachori, samosas, and gol gappas. For this entry we’ll focus on the former, as it’s one of the city’s favorites: bhalla (which is also known as aloo ki tikki elsewhere in India). Here, it’s a fried potato and chickpea patty that’s smashed open and topped with grated ginger and a spicy-sweet brown sauce. It’s the kind of perfectly satisfying snack that can be found only on the streets of India.

Where: Our bhalla came from Bhagat Halwai & Confectioners (Suresh Plaza, Mahatma Ghandi Rd., approx. map), a popular sweets and fast-food dispenser. This well-known place has an indoor sweets shop on one corner and an outdoor “food court”—which sells the chaat and other savories—across the way, with a covered seating area.

When: Daily, noon-11:30pm

Order: The bhalla (25 rupees) is delicious here, the potato-chickpea balls freshly fried and served in small clay bowls. Other available chaat items include dal ki kachori, pyaaz ki kachori, pav bhaji, bhel puri, chole bhature, samosas, and the ever-popular gol gappas, though we unfortunately can’t recommend those, as they’re usually made with local water.

Alternatively: Closer to Agra’s tourist sites is GMB (Crystal Tower, Fatehabad Rd., map), rumored to have good chaat and vegetarian food, as well as Agra Chaat Bhandar in Sadar Bazaar (approx. map). Remember to beware of gol gappas (unless you can confirm filtered water is used) and any others using raw vegetables.




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