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A Memorable Ramen Encounter


On a cold winter evening in Kyoto, I coincidentally found a minuscule ramen shop concealed in a tranquil rear entryway. Sitting at the counter, I watched the talented culinary specialist fastidiously... Read more

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Gumbo: Chicken and andouille (gumbo ya-ya)

Chicken and andouille gumbo (gumbo ya-ya) from Mr. B's Bistro in New Orleans.

What: Lacking the briny flavor of the sea (see also: seafood gumbo), gumbo with chicken and andouille—the most common meat marriage in the gumbo worldtends to be spicy, thick, and, well, meaty. It is called “gumbo ya-ya” on some menus. Everyone has their favorite type of gumbo; this one is ours.

Where: In the French Quarter, Mr. B’s Bistro (201 Royal St., map) makes a wonderful gumbo ya-ya with a dark-brown roux, generous pieces of roasted chicken and hunks of andouille, and a rich, spicy taste.

When: Mon-Sat, 11:30am-2pm (bar menu, 2pm-5:30pm); Sun (jazz brunch), 10:30am-2pm; nightly, 5:30pm-9pm. It’s always worth nothing that $1.50 Bloody Marys and martinis are offered at lunch here (Monday through Friday)—sit at the bar for a more informal environment.

Order: The hearty gumbo ya-ya ($7 at lunch; $8.25 at dinner) followed by the utterly unmissable BBQ shrimp.

Alternatively: Also in the French Quarter, K-Paul’s (416 Chartres St., map) is rumored to serve a mean chicken-andouille gumbo, and the “Death by Gumbo” at R’evolution (777 Bienville St., map)—roasted quail, andouille, oysters, and filé rice—is lauded as well. Uptown, you might try Brigtsen’s (723 Dante St., map) for filé gumbo with rabbit and andouille, or the duck-and-andouille variety at Jacques-Imo’s (8324 Oak St., map).


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