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When I was a child, my family used to have a tradition of baking apple pies together every fall. We would gather the ripest apples from our backyard and spend hours peeling, slicing, and mixing the ingredients... Read more
These triangular pockets of corn stuffed with various ingredients were among the best things we put in our mouths in Oaxaca. Do not miss trying tetelas in this state!
Where: We only saw tetelas offered at one place: Itanoní (Belisario Domínguez 513, Colonia Reforma, map), a casual and breezy antojería (specializing in corn-based antojitos, or snacks) and tortillería (you can watch the tortilla-making process in the open-air area in the front of the restaurant), where masa is made fresh daily. Its menu comes with a philosophy: that native, heirloom corn, maiz criollo—domesticated by Mexicans some 9,000 years ago—is essential to Mexican culture, and its cultivation should be celebrated.
When: Mon-Sat, 7am-4pm; Sun, 8am-2pm
Order: We loved the fresh-tasting tetela de hongos (44p)—every bite burst with mushrooms, queso fresco, and cream—but other fillings on offer include beans, chicharrón, and cheese with salsa, among others. Being corn-obsessed, this is also a great place to try memelitas and tostadas; on weekends the pozole here is fantastic. Wash it down with an agua fresca like the minty limón con hierbabuena.
Good to know: Itanoní is a short cab ride (or long walk) from downtown Oaxaca, and well worth the few pesos to get there.
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