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When I was a child, my family used to have a tradition of baking apple pies together every fall. We would gather the ripest apples from our backyard and spend hours peeling, slicing, and mixing the ingredients... Read more
Another of Oaxaca’s favorite masa-based antojitos (snacks), the memela is a slightly thick corn tortilla that’s toasted on a hot comal, spread with asiento (pork lard), and topped with refried beans, crumbly cheese, choripapa (potatoes and chorizo), and/or whatever else is on hand. Not commonly found elsewhere across the country, the memela is a must-try in Oaxaca.
Where: Our memela is from La Güerita inside Mercado de la Merced (Insurgentes between Murguía and Morelos, map), a bustling fonda whose comal saw a lot of action from empanadas and memelas.
When: Daily, 8am-3:30pm. Memelas are most traditionally eaten earlier in the day.
Order: Una memela sencilla (7p)—topped with just asiento, frijoles, and queso—is a good bet for tasting the memela at its most basic: a satisfyingly simple, savory, crunchy snack. (Vegetarians, order it sin asiento.)
Alternatively: Memelas are standard Oaxacan market fare; nearly anyone with a comal is probably making them. As far as restaurants go, the excellent, fresh-masa-obsessed Itanoní (Belisario Domínguez 513, Colonia Reforma, map) is a great place to try this and other corn-based antojitos.
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