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Food Memories

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A Memorable Ramen Encounter


On a cold winter evening in Kyoto, I coincidentally found a minuscule ramen shop concealed in a tranquil rear entryway. Sitting at the counter, I watched the talented culinary specialist fastidiously... Read more

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  • What to eat
  • How to burn it off
  • Where to Stay

It’s a bit far from the hustle and bustle of Old Delhi—which some might consider a plus—but we wholeheartedly recommend the midrange Emblem Hotel (E-5 Kalindi Colony Main Rd., map), near New Friends Colony in expat-friendly South Delhi. Rooms are spacious and well-maintained; the staff friendly and helpful; even the wide range of food served in the small lobby cafe is pretty decent. Also, there’s great wi-fi, strong A/C, and enough good TV channels to save your sanity, should you happen to, um, be temporarily confined to your bed for a day or two (not that we’d know!). Doubles start at 7,500 rupees, including a nice Indian/Western breakfast buffet.

Also in South Delhi, the boutique Manor Hotel (from 7,500 rupees in low season; 77, Friends Colony (West), map), in the midst of a quiet, leafy suburb, makes for a relaxing stay, with yoga, massage, and meditation sessions available. Even more important, the award-winning in-house restaurant, Indian Accent, offers up fantastic modern Indian food that successfully marries tradition with creative ambition. It ain’t cheap, but it’s worth a visit even if you’re staying elsewhere.

In chaotic, backpacker-friendly Paharganj, just north of Connaught Place near the New Delhi Railway Station in central Delhi, we’ve heard good things about Hotel Hari Piorko (4775, Main Bazaar, nr. 6 Tooti Chowk, map), a budget hotel with good amenities like A/C, LCD TVs, hot water, a pleasant rooftop garden restaurant, and fish tanks in most rooms (they’re calming, apparently). A limited number of rooms, available by request, have free wi-fi. Rooms range 990-2,100 rupees; some sleep three or four.

For something more upscale near Connaught Place—complete with fancy on-site restaurants, a poolside lounge, and a top-rated spa—try The Park (15, Parliament St., map). There’s a nice gym and a daily free yoga class (guests only) held on the spa terrace; wi-fi is available for a fee. Rooms start around 6,900 rupees and go way up from there; upper floors, farthest from the DJ action in the bars, tend to be quietest.


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